Subject: TR: Kathy's First 14er Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 15:20:50 GMT From: Tom Stybr Organization: I speak for no one else Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
Uncompahgre Peak, Elev. 14,309 ft. East Slopes Grade I, Class 2 8.0 miles; 3,000 ft. elevation gain June 28, 1998
I had just poured hot water for our second cups of coffee when we began to truly wake up. Our rations of Nutrigrains and Pop-Tarts went down with little protest. Already two groups had signed in at the Nellie Creek Trailhead while we delayed our emergence from the toasty down bags that protected us from the 40 degree dawn, two older gentlemen with large packs had just driven up in an Explorer and a trio, two guys and a gal.
Let the motivation begin. Within fifteen minutes of stripping off our bags, we were dressed and ready for the trail. It was 0705. Kathy had never done this before. She was a bit apprehensive about scaling a fourteener but assured herself she could do it. Hiking through the trees along a very noisy Nellie Creek, we were struggling to generate warmth. The sky was an uninterrupted blue but the sun hadn't come over the ridge to our east. It wasn't until we bested the switchback that lead to the immense meadow east of Uncompahgre that we felt the first rays of the day.
Already we had to traverse a bit of snow on our way up the switchback and there would be plenty more covering the trail as it lead to Uncompahgre's south ridge. Firm underfoot, it had only a hint of slushiness accepting the edge of a boot willingly. My gal gushed at the beauty before us even though there weren't that many wildflowers blooming. The patchwork of brown, green and white under a huge expanse of deep blue sky held our attention while we took a short break to apply sunscreen. "I can do this," she said. I let her lead at her own pace most of the time coaching only a little to find a sustainable pace. "Be the tortoise, not the hare. If you feel like you have to stop, don't. Just slow down."
We made fine time as we chased the groups ahead of us. There aren't many places to hide as the whole of the route was always in view except for the last 300 feet or so before the summit. We reached a trail junction near 12,900 ft. at about 0900. The trail followed a broad grassy shelf to the ridge near 13,300 and we reached it at 0930. Kathy was looking for a break but agreed to wait until the view had opened to the west. It did at roughly 13,500 ft. Wetterhorn, Matterhorn and Coxcomb stood out brilliantly while the snow between Matterhorn and Uncompahgre was surprisingly abundant compared to our east. We shared another PowerBar and downed Ultrafuel. "I can do this."
We noticed another group descending from the upper ridge but did not encounter them. They must have descended the steep, nasty-looking talus slope from about 13,800 ft. to the west. We did hear a dog barking from that direction but saw no sight of them. Perhaps they would be attempting Wetterhorn. They had a good day for it.
The groups ahead of us had changed order with the trio leading up through the upper switchbacks before disappearing behind the fin of rock protecting the last few hundred feet before the summit from us. We found those switchbacks to be steeper than the earlier parts of the route and again I coached about pace. We set our sights on a rocky notch not knowing until our descent because under snow the trail actually traverses far to the left before switching back right then ducking behind the west side of the rib that separated us from easier ground above. The easy scramble to the notch was fun for me but a new experience for Kathy.
I could read the concern on her face but I let her deal with her own emotions. She made it up to the notch without a hitch and we rewarded ourselves with a sit-down and surveyed our kingdom. This was one of the finest days weather-wise that I had experienced while climbing. Clear, warm skies and light winds prevailed. Through the notch, we encountered an eroded talus and dirt slope some 50 to 80 feet tall that was the only obvious means of gaining the upper ridge. I lead trying to show the way to every foot and hand hold.
The route was anything but solid. Kathy was a little scared and she claimed she couldn't go any farther. I tried to reassure her that there wasn't as much exposure as she thought and to let time slow down. One step at a time and she would get through this and she did. Once again on descent we saw that this slope should last only about 50 feet before exiting right but we endured a full eighty feet straight up to gain the ridge. Neither Roach nor Dawson describe this section with any detail. Dawson seems to say to stay on the east side of the ridge but I can't fathom what he is talking about unless it is to climb up and over the rock east of the notch.
I said it's all over but the shouting which she took to mean we were on the summit. But what I really meant was we were on easy ground and could stroll to the top. We did at 1030 and I congratulated her on her first high peak and 14er. We chatted it up with the two groups, one from Salt Lake City the other from Oklahoma City, now on top and spent a long time wandering about the broad summit, taking pictures of each other peering down the sheer face of Uncompahgre's impressive northeast side. I was the only one of the lot who bothered standing on top of the boulders at the high point of the summit plateau. Kathy signed the register.
We departed around 1115 behind the trio but ahead of the pair. I scouted the ridge above the dirt slope and concluded that it was the best way down. We encountered many more folk on their way up of many different shapes and sizes. We thought one man would fall over as he teetered along the trail above the crux. I remember most of the groups had members that seemed wholly unaccustomed to the slippery scramble. We zipped down fairly well then looked to follow the trail proper over the snow to the upper switchbacks. It would have been better to follow our ascent route down the rocks.
We took over the lead from the trio and motored down the trail scarcely stopping until well down the route and off the ridge. After a short break we resumed our downward spiral to be greeted by the lower switchback that dropped us alongside Nellie Creek again. We signed out at the trailhead at 1308. The last group we had seen was an attractive couple in sneakers and one bottle of water between them. She asked, "How far to the top?" "A long way," Kathy answered. I couldn't have been happier for or more proud of her.
-- Thanx for your interest. Tom