Blanca Peak

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From: Timothy P. Edinger
Peak Name: Blanca Peak
Rank: 4th 
Height 14,345 
Date: 8 Oct 2000 
Reached Summit
Route:
  Ascent Lake Como Approach 
   Descent Same as above 
   Difficulty Moderate 
   Elevation Base: 8,000 Summit: 13, 345 Elevation Gain: 6,345 
Distance 
   Base to Summit: 7.3 miles 
   Summit to Base: 7.3 miles 
   Total Distance 14.6 miles 
   Time Start 7:00 a.m.=20 
   Summit 1:00 p.m.=20 
   Finish 5:00 p.m. 
Trail (snow, scree, bouldering)  Very rocky
  ; talus slope at headwall covered with knee-deep fresh snow
  ; tough going all around. Rocks on saddle and then ridge covered with rim ice 
 Conditions 
   Weather:   Partly cloudy 
   Temperature: 40 Degrees @ Trailhead; 25 degrees at summit
 Climbing Companions: Winston; Milo 

I began this outing by driving from Colorado Springs, CO to the Como Lake trailhead at 3:30 a.m., 8 Oct 2000. My companions were my two Old English Sheepdogs, Winston, age 4 and Milo, age 2. We arrived at the trailhead at about 6:45 a.m. and proceeded to gear up. Very rough road in, but no obstacles. Lot's of loose rocks though. The first part of the trail to Lake Como was unremarkable. No wildlife observed except for birds. Weather was cool, around 40 degrees, with no wind. Ideal hiking weather. Stopped at 8:15 a.m. for break where jeep trail crosses Holbrook Creek (11,000 feet). Chokecherry Canyon very pretty with Aspen trees in full color. Then continued up jeep trail to Como Lake.

Como Lake was outstanding. Dense clouds parted momentarily and sun shone onto lake as I approached. There had been a light dusting of snow overnight, and the cabin on the south shore of the lake was a spectacle. Very nice. Another break at Como Lake. Then onto the pack trail to the northwest face. Encountered significant snow at about 12,000 feet near Blue Lakes. Major post holing just past Crater Lake. Climbing the headwall proper was made more difficult with the knee-deep snow. Talus that was exposed was covered with rim ice. It was slow going but we gained the saddle at noon. I grounded my backpack, gave the dogs hamburgers, hydrated, and then but my cold weather gear on.

We then ascended the ridgeline, staying on the west side of the crest. Very snowy, very ice packed, and somewhat treacherous. Thankfully, no appreciable wind was blowing. Gained the summit at 1:00 p.m.; the dogs remained approximately 100 feet below. Took a few snapshots and then headed back to the saddle and my backpack. Glissaded when possible down the headwall. Picked up the trail again near Crater Lake and returned to Como Lake. Took a break at an old cabin and had lunch (hamburgers for the dogs; tuna for me). Then slogged all the way back to the trailhead, over terribly rocky trail. This was the hardest part of the climb, it seemed. Reached the car at 5:00 p.m. and hydrated with a Heineken Dark. The dogs slept. October is good time to climb the Sierra Blanca if you are prepared for some snow. Lake Como is deserted, which is nice if you want to camp. The weather is not too cold yet for overnighters, and hiking conditions are very pleasant.

Tim Edinger